CAIRO – DAY III
So, ladies and gentlemen that was my last day in Cairo which means I had to make the most of it. I woke up early in the morning, had my breakfast on the rooftop, left my room and dropped my backpack in the hotel so that I don’t have to carry it with me.
I arranged an evening flight (departure 20:45) to Luxor and also I found a Couchsurfing host there.
Enjoying the luxury of having internet I tried to contact a few people so that I can meet someone. Out of nowhere I ended up with the brilliant idea to post a message in the official group of Egypt in Couchsurfing. BIG MISTAKE :D
Well I have to say that this is going to work in many other countries but not in Egypt. I started receiving calls each 2 min from people who apparently were trying to offer me tours, not meeting with some cool person.
I was preparing to go out and then I saw in my wallet the business card of Mohamed Atef (remember the guy from Egyptian Museum?). So why not? At least I already met him once and I knew he is not an annoying person.
It was Saturday so I was lucky to found out that this is his day off.
So on my third day in Cairo I was already quite experienced in crossing the streets alone, I had a local phone number and there was one more thing I should do so that I can experience the local life: riding the metro :P
The metro in Cairo consists of three operational lines. The closest metro station to my hotel, situated on Tahrir Square is called Sadat.
Most of my Egyptian friends warned me that the metro is not the best way of transportation in Egypt because it’s quite old, crowded and not much safe.
This of course couldn’t stop me. After trying the metro in New Delhi, India and Tehran, Iran what could be worse than this? :D
Actually my experience wasn’t bad at all. I bought a ticket which is apparently so cheap is it’s like almost for free, I found out the direction I wanted to go (Helwan) and best thing: I found out that like in Dubai there is a cars which are reserved only for women.
I get off at Mar Girgis station where I was supposed to meet MR. Mohamed :P
The metro stop is quite convenient because it takes me straight to the area called Coptic Cairo.
Coptic Cairo is a part of Old Cairo which encompasses the Babylon Fortress, the Coptic Museum, the Hanging Church, the Greek Church of St. George and many other Coptic churches and historical sites.
I’m supposed to meet Mohamed in the Hanging Church but I ended up in The Church of St. George.
The Church of St. George was built in the 10th century. St. George is the only round church in Egypt and it is built atop the foundations of a Roman round tower.
Inside, the dark interior is heavy with incense and pierced by sunbeams that filter through its stained glass windows.
I sit there peacefully for some time and then I meet with MR. Mohamed :P Honestly I couldn’t find better partner in crime for the day. After the first 10 min we already break the ice and we became super good friends.
Egyptian people have this amazing ability to make you feel comfortable around them and what I like about the guys is that they’re always laid back and smiling (ok last one is probably because I’m a girl) :P
So Mohamed took me on a short tour through the streets of Old Cairo.
We visit Ben Ezra Synagogoue, The Church of Saint Barbara, Saints Sergius and Bacchus Church (Abu Serga) and for all these places MR. Mohamed has a story to tell :)
All these churches are extremely beautiful and old. The dark spacious rooms are full with incense fragrances and icons of saints.
I really liked Saints Sergius and Bacchus Church. This is one of the oldest Coptic churches in Egypt, dating back to the 4th century.
The church is named of Sergius and Bacchus, who were soldier-saints martyred during the 4th century in Syria by the Roman Emperor Maximian.
The most interesting feature is the crypt where Mary, Joseph and the infant Jesus are said to have rested.
It’s time to have a look at the most famous of all Coptic churches in Old Cairo: The Hanging Church.
The Hanging Church is also referred to as the Suspended Church or Al-Moallaqa. It is called the Hanging Church because it was built on the southern gate of the Roman Fortress. Logs of palm trees (you could see them underneath and it’s really amazing) and layers of stones were constructed above the ruins of the Roman fortress to be used as a fundament.
Another unique part of the architecture of the church is the wooden roof in the shape of Noah’s ark.
Something you shouldn’t miss if you are in Old Cairo district is to visit The Coptic Museum (entrance fee: 60 L.E.). Here you can see he largest collection of Egyptian Christian artifacts in the world.
We spent there probably around an hour or two but if you have the time you can easily spent half a day here.
Let’s not forget it’s my last day in Cairo so it’s time to move on. Me and Mohamed jump in a taxi and I feel such a relief because of the fact at least today I don’t have to try my bargaining skills :)
Next stop: Salah al-Din Citadel (entrance fee: 60 L.E.)
This beautiful historic site is well known for its mosques and museums. From the fortress you can enjoy a splendid view over Cairo.
Because of its specific location (beneath the Muqattam Hills) it was extremely difficult to be attacked so it has served as a seat of the Egyptian government until the XIX century. In 1860s the new ruler moved to his newly built Abdin Palace.
MR. Mohamed can tell you lots of interesting facts about the fortress. We visit the courtyard and before getting inside you should take off your shoes or put the shoe covers. Of course I prefer the option which is more likely to make me look ridiculous :P
A quick look of the courtyard before we get inside:
The courtyard (sahn) of the mosque
When you get inside the citadel you will find a true masterpiece of the Islamic architecture: The great Mosque of Muhammad Ali Pasha or Alabaster Mosque.
The most amazing part of the interior is the huge cupola. Many small lamps are hung everywhere on the beautiful ceiling, creating a spectacle of light:
After this long walk into the cultural life of Egypt it’s time to chill a bit and do some shopping.
I told you that I’m going to go back to Khan Al Khalili, right? :)
So here we are again. We pass by Al Hussein Mosque before we get lost into the small streets of the market.
We get into the small streets and we end up on a second floor of a courtyard where you will find many small shops with funny items and unique items like this old school typewriting machine for example:
Mohamed takes me to a really nice shop called “Jordi”. Best thing about the shop is that no bargaining is required. The items have price tags and all of them are reasonable.
Beautiful miniatures of Egyptian deities, magnets, clothing, beautifully carved jewelry boxes…
For less than 300 L.E. I’m buying a sufficient quantity of souvenirs for friends and family.
Shopping always makes me feel hungry so Mohamed takes me to one of the best places for kofta:
The food is
amazing and I have a great time talking with Mohamed. I feel like I really
don’t want to leave Cairo.
The proper way to finish my day is to smoke shisha and of course when you’re in the company of a local guy (on top of that guy who’s also a guide) you can be sure that you’re going to the right place.
“El Fishawy” is one of the oldest coffeehouses in Egypt. For more than two centuries this place has been a magnet for Egyptian writers, artists, musicians, students and intellectuals.
The cafeteria has three sections: one used to serve as private room for the king (farouk). Second section was for intellectuals as painters, artists etc. The third section was meant to be for the ordinary people.
Mohamed shares with me the story of "El Fishawy" that a few people know about.
Many years ago a princess wanted to build houses for the homeless people beside the café but one of the constructions collapsed and it had damaged El Fishawy.
The smart owner refused to take money from the princess as a compensation so he was offered to choose anything from her treasures. He choose a huge beautiful antique mirrors that could be seen today on the walls of the old cafeteria.
If you want to really experience the rhythm of Cairo’s social life just sit there, order tea and relax with shisha in a good company.
El Fishawy it’s not just an ordinary cafeteria but a social monument in Cairo. Don’t miss it!
It’s time to make my next move and unfortunately this has to be the airport. Being famous with my incredible skills to miss my flights I’m leaving earlier and go back to my lovely hotel to say goodbye to Mr. Nabil and take my backpack.
If you want to save some money going to the airport it’s a good option to use the metro. I take the metro from Attaba to Kolleyet Al-Banat. From here the taxi to the airport will cost you around 30-40 L.E.
I feel extremely exhausted but at the same time I enjoy the feeling of excitement simply because of the fact that I made it to the next destination - Luxor. The butterflies I have in my stomach every time when I’m taking a domestic flight is something I wouldn’t trade for anything!
This time I book a full fare ticket and I’m really happy with that seeing that in the small aircraft of Egypt Air there’s no even a single empty seat.
The flight from Cairo to Luxor last only 50 minutes so I don’t have the time even for a nap. Hello, Luxor!
I arrive around 22:00pm and I contact my host from Couchsurfing.
I took a taxi which has to bring me to the ferry. I do my best to bargain for a reasonable price and after some negotiations we agree on paying 50 L.E.
I meet my host and we took a ferry to cross Nile. It’s late evening and the city looks magical under the night lights.
My host Ziad, lives on the West bank of Nile River. His house it’s quite and has a nice courtyard with greenery, small fireplace for BBQ, a few benches and cozy rooms.
One of the good things when you’re a solo traveler is that you accumulate so many feelings and different stories that you keep inside so when you meet other people the inevitable feeling to share everything, appears immediately.
Sharing your experience as a traveler with a local person can guarantee you that most of the time people will understand you and at the same time they will have fun because they see the things that are so familiar to them but from a different perspective. The perspective of someone who is a foreigner into their country.
Thousand years of history, splendid views, delicious food, enjoying even activities like crossing the street in Cairo or arguing with taxi drivers (lol), meeting all this hospitable people in 3 days makes me feel blessed with my small adventure.
LUXOR - DAY IV
Life’s too short. That’s a fact. Only with a few hours of sleep I wake up early in the morning the next day. I have only one day for Luxor and I want to make the most of it.
The summary for that day: 5 tombs & 4 temples visited, the biggest historical challenge marathon I’ve ever done finished within 6h which cost me around 500 L.E. (60 EUR) for a bunch of entrance tickets + another 500 L.E. for the tour guide and driver, the longest time I have ever spent underground (if we don’t count my metro rides) down in the tombs and definitely the only time of my life I was actually so fascinated by death/life after death.
I know it sounds crazy but it seems that in ancient Egypt people were much more concerned about life after death than the life itself. The idea of immortality could be seen in each and every painting. It’s amazing to witness the ancient tombs and try to understand all the unspoken secrets kept inside.
Briefly, will try to write here the accents of the day without getting into details because I’m afraid this article (as a friend of mine told me) will turn into a book.
My early morning starts on the rooftop of “Nile Valley” Hotel, where I’m excited to have my coffee and I enjoy that view:
My excitement doesn’t last long because before I order my coffee the driver is waiting for me downstairs. Because of listening to Mohamed’s advice I meet Mona who is a tour guide in Luxor.
BIG mistake lol. I mean, she’s not a bad person but she’s absolutely unprepared to give you any interesting facts and fascinating stories. I’m actually quite bored with her explanations who seems to be downloaded directly from sources like Google and Wikipedia (which wouldn’t be such a big issue if she doesn’t behave like she is in school and today she has a very important exam) lol
My life would be saved a few hours later when my couchsurfing friend Ziad will show up and kind of “replace” my official guide. Both of us will have a good laugh together.
Best description of the whole situation could be seen in that single photo:
Best description of the whole situation could be seen in that single photo:
First stop for the day is the highlight of Luxor: The Valley of the Kings. The driver took us to the main entrance. I paid 100 L.E. for visiting 3 tombs and another 100 L.E. for the tomb of Tuthankamun, which is considered to be one of the most famous archaeological sites in the world.
After that you have to jump on a funny small train that will take you to the entrance of the Valley of the Kings.
The Valley of the Kings is that place in Egypt that keeps the most valuable treasures and secrets of the ancient civilization.
Over 65 numbered tombs have been discovered here. All of them have different numbers and the abbreviation KV which stands for ‘Kings’ Valley”.
Sketch map of the tombs
I've visited the major ones (see the map above):
1)Tomb of Ramses IV (KV2)
2) Tomb of Merenptah (KV8)
3)Tomb of Horemheb (KV 57)
A separate ticket gives you access to the Tomb of Tutankhamun (KV 62).
Now pay attention to that because it’s very important: you are NOT allowed to take any photos into the tombs. Don’t try to be smart because the guards are always watching. I saw a few ugly scenes mainly with tourist from China that were kicked out because of that.
All you have to do is just to down and up (I saw a lot of people struggling with that activity lol) to the stairs which will lead you to an endless tunnels, beautiful drawings and mummies.
It’s quite hot underneath but it’s also magical. Just dive into this world of symbolism. I’m sure you are going to like it as much as I did.
Definitely, the most significant place here is Tuthankhamun’s tomb. It took Howard Carter and his patron, Lord Carnarvon 5 years to find the tomb, then 10 more years to record and remove its contents.
When Howard Carter had his first glimpse of all gold and ebony treasures in the chambers he was asked if he can see something. He replied with the memorable words: “I see wonderful things here!”
That one single sentence could also summarize my experience for The Valley of the Kings.
Second stop for the day: Tomb of Mena & Nakht (TT52) (entrance 30 L.E.). The tomb is located in The Valley of the Nobles (Sheikh Abd el-Qurna), part of the Theban Necropolis.
Here you are allowed to take photos (after a small tip of course):
Next stop: Hatshepsut temple (entrance fee: 50 L.E.).
The temple, which is located beneath the cliffs at Deir el Bahari is dedicated to the sun god Amon-Ra.
Meanwhile Ziad shows up and he saves me from Mona :P
He gives the suggestion for our next stop: Valley of the workers (Deir el-Medina) (entrance fee: 40 L.E.) This village was home to the artisans who worked on the tombs in the Valley of the Kings.
I highly recommend you to see that place because here are the most well-preserved houses and you can actually see how the community was organized in ancient Egypt. Walls were made of mudbrick, built on top of stone foundations.
Here you can visit some of the worker’s tombs and you could see the difference. The same people who created the perfect tombs in Valley of the Kings created more simple and not that perfect, yet amazing drawing here.
I’m lucky to have Ziad that day because he would make me pay attention to things that otherwise I would not notice. I admire traveling alone but what I like about sightseeing with other people (especially if they are locals) is that you could see things from their perspective and you can learn tons of new things (!)
Next stop: Habu Temple ( also known as The Temple of Ramses III) (entrance fee 40 L.E.)
In ancient times Madinat Habu was known as Djanet and according to ancient belief was the place were Amun first appeared. Both Hatshepsut and Tuthmosis III built a temple dedicated to Amun here and later Rameses III constructed his larger memorial temple on the site.
As you can see taking photos is allowed here so we’re taking advantage of it :P
Are you already tired? We still haven’t finished with the temples for today! Our tour continues on the other side of the river. We have to take boat and go to the East Bank of Nile.
Next stop: Luxor Temple (entrance fee: 60 L.E.)
Extremely beautiful and huge in scale, Luxor temple is something you shouldn’t miss!
Main entrance to the temple complex was originally flanked by six colossal statues of Ramesses – four seated, and two standing – but only two seated statues have survived. Also surviving is a 25-metre tall pink granite obelisk.
Our last stop for the day is also located on the East Bank of Nile. That’s Karnak Temple (entrance fee: 80 L.E.)
It’s enough to mention the fact that Karnak is the largest religious building ever constructed. So take a deep breath (especially if you have a guide like mine lol), take your time and walk between the gorgeous columns, drawings which tell thousands stories and obelisks.
You would be lucky if you reach the place at sunset time. That’s happened to me and I have to say it’s the perfect time for good shots.
After an exhausting day full with temples and tombs it's time to finish with the history and start living for the moment. And trust me, Egyptians are equally good at both: present or past, they just know how to enjoy life.
I’m lucky enough to enjoy the splendid view over Luxor from the terrace of Al-Sahaby lane restaurant. And the food is even more amazing: camel meat dish, tomatoes with mozzarella and cheese, meat with mushroom sauce. I’m telling you, the food in Egypt is something to die for!
I would say there’s only one thing missing and that’s a nice, cold beer (the restaurant doesn’t serve alcohol) but my host can easily fix that and he brings booze from outside.
I’m going to finish my article with a single photo of my last evening in Egypt. A photo that shows only one thing: wherever you go, whatever you do I guarantee you will meet great people. All you have to do is to open your heart and mind and just travel! :)
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