The city I've always wanted to write about: Lisbon

This is an article about a city I’ve wanted to write about long time ago. Why it took me so long? Because we are always afraid to write about the things we love the most. This article is about special place that has stolen a piece of my heart.

I’ve done the flight to Lisbon 4 times as part of my cabin crew job. Every time when I had the layover in Lisbon I was promising myself “I’m going to write about this city”. It seemed that this 24h that we are usually given are not enough to witness this unlimited beauty and the pages in my notebook were staying empty, with a bitter aftertaste each and every time when I had to leave. 

Portuguese people are always nice and they’re always proud with their country and extremely generous in giving you tips how to make the most of your time. That’s why I always used to get some hand drawn maps and pieces of paper with tips from my Portuguese colleagues onboard. 

And still, the time was never enough and the flight from Dubai is quite long (07:30h) and always busy so I usually didn’t have the energy that Lisbon requires. Let me clarify: most of my layovers I was so exhausted so literary trying not to fall asleep over my bacalhau plate or glass of red wine. 

So I decided to follow one of my rules: “I’ve been there but it’s still on my list” because as long as you feel that something is missing  out from the picture you have to go back to the same place and figure it out. 

I don’t collect countries. Because it’s not about going to 15 countries in 15 days like I’ve read somewhere. It might sound like a cliché but all I want to do is capture beautiful moments, beautiful memories, and beautiful stories. And I knew Lisbon has so much more to offer. So it was time for my 5th visit to Lisbon. This time on my days off. 

That’s why after coming back from work from one of those endless flights (Capetown, South Africa) I grabbed my backpack and I jumped on the afternoon flight to Lisbon. 

A serious quantity of German beer made me finally fall asleep after God knows how many sleepless hours. Everyone knows that flight attendant’s sleeping pattern is basically missing (I don’t want to use stronger definition but if you want me to be honest with you, yeah, it’s fucked up) but I still think it’s incredible how come the previous day I was watching the sunset on top of Table Mountain in Capetown and  the next day at the evening I was almost 9000km away, watching the night lights of Lisbon. Sometimes I feel like I travel in time with my job. Circling around the globe it doesn’t sound like a dream anymore. This is my reality. It could be really exhausting but at the same time is damn exciting life. 

Here I’m thinking how to make a soft transition to my Lisbon story. Where should I start from? As I mentioned earlier it’s always hard to write about the things you love the most. 

Shall I give you a list of reasons why you should visit Lisbon?

 Or maybe it’s better to start with the main sightseeing spots? Castelo de São Jorge (Saint George’s Castle), Belém Tower, Alfama, Bairro Alto? 

Or maybe the reason to love that city so much is just because of this unique atmosphere on the streets full with small restaurants, pastry shops, bars, incredible viewpoints (miradouro)  and people who will stop you and occasionally would whisper into your ear: “Hashish, hashish” ? ;) 

Just chillin' ;)

Or I should put the blame on the famous port wine, my favorite “Super Bock” beer, huge portions of bacalhau (codfish) or the mouth melting custard tarts, pastéis de nata, for my Lisbon passion? 

Is it the architecture and this unique mix of old and simple buildings along with contemporary graffiti on the facades, the romantic old trams, the narrow streets with their “ups” and “downs” and all this art that surrounds you?

It’s ALL of it and much more. When I walk on the streets of Lisbon I feel like I found my place. When I’m lost into the small streets I don’t want to be found. 

The following quote could absolutely summarize my thoughts: 

“Quem não viu Lisboa, não viu coisa boa”

“Who never saw Lisbon, never saw something good”. 

***

Lisbon for beginners. 

So ladies and gentlemen, here is how my story begins, because that was just a sweet overture!

I landed in Lisbon on 19 FEB late evening after 07:30h flight, 7 Heinekens and 3 hours of sleep for the last 24h.

 It’s easy to get out from the airport and it’s even easier to get to the city center (even for not a completely sober person). You just have to take the metro. You can easily purchase viva viagem card (0.50 €) and top up the card every time you need it. The metro consists of 4 lines and it’s quite clean and efficient. 

I’m taking the red line to Alameda station. From there I’m changing to the green line to reach Cais do Sodré.

My first night I booked a place at Sunset Destination Hostel which is located adjacent to Cais do Sodré metro station. Here’s also the main railway station in Lisbon so you can easily take a train a make a day trip to Cascais, Sintra or Cabo da Roca. Bairo Alto is only 10 min walk from here and  also the famous (or maybe still not so famous for you) Pink Street which is full with bars and that makes this place a perfect spot for travelers. 

I paid 15 € for a bed in a 6 bed dormitory. The hostel is clean and organized.

What I like about hostels is that they’re giving you the perfect possibility to socialize with people when you’re traveling alone and you can always participate into so many activities organized by the hostel.

I could say Sunset Destination offers a wide range of activities for any type of backpacker: Pub Crawl tour, Surf Tours, Free Walking Tours, Street Art Tour etc. Staying in a hostel will guarantee you won’t stay bored even for a minute. 

Later on, the same evening, Tsvetan which is one of the few people I enjoy travelling with, will arrive with an evening flight from Hamburg and will join me in my trip.

Next day early in the morning I’m enjoying my sweet breakfast in Sunset Destination which consists of muesli, pancakes with chocolate and coffee. 

Another thing I love about hostels are these mornings when you have all travelers together in the common room and everyone is extremely hungry but at the same time so excited to finish with their meal and start exploring the city. You can feel the good vibes in the air. Everyone is smiling and everyone is friendly :) Me? I’m starving and I can’t wait to go out!

As I said events organized by the hostels are always a good opportunity to start exploring a city so that day me and Tsvetan decided to take part in The Free Walking tour. 

I have to admit our guide that day wasn’t the best one (and I suspect he had a glamorous party last night) but the tour itself was quite interesting.

We started at Rossio Square which official name is actually Pedro IV Square. I know that place very well because that was one of the first places I saw when I was in Lisbon for the first time.

That’s the heart of Lisbon. From here you can easily go to Bairo Alto, St. George’s Castle or you can just get lost and not find anything (used to happen to me at the very beginning) :)

Important role in the history of Lisbon and the architecture of the city has the 1755 Lisbon earthquake (also known as the Great Lisbon earthquake) which almost destroyed Lisbon. 

Most buildings around the Rossio date from the reconstruction of the Pombaline Downtown carried out after the Great Lisbon earthquake, which levelled most structures in the area.

Praça da Figueira  which is adjacent to Rossio Square, is another place that I should mention here. You will recognize it by the huge statue of King John I in the middle. 

Having in mind the cold wind and rain that I had in Lisbon during my layovers in October and November that day I was prepared with warm clothes and even a hat. 

Surprisingly, the weather was quite warm for February. My last memory from Figueira Square was how freezing it was and how I tried to hide from the rough wind in Mercado da Figueira. There is a good selection of wine, and you can even have some coffee and pastéis de Nata inside. 

The first stop of our tour is Alfama – one of the most emblematic neighborhoods of Lisbon. 

If you are in Alfama you shouldn’t miss to see Fado Vadio, a graffiti wall located in the Escadinhas de São Cristóvão. Escadinhas de São Cristóvão is one of the many typical narrow, steep streets in the old neighborhoods of Mouraria, which is probably the birth place of Fado. 

Now, you may ask what is fado?

Fado is the traditional folk music of Portugal. Melancholy by nature, the music includes instruments like guitars and mandolins with one Fadista singing poetic lyrics related to darker elements of love, death and sadness. The music may, however, occasionally include some humor.

The paintings on the walls are connected not only with fado music but also with the life of Portuguese people and what is important for them. It shows moments from the reality: bread and wine, music, even the prostitutes ;)

This little street looks like a true masterpiece and I personally loved it! There’s apparently many more hidden places like this in Alfama. That’s why I like this neighborhood so much. You just have not to give up walking and you never know what’s around the next corner!

We walked to the oldest church in the city, Lisbon Cathedral or Sé de Lisboa.

The free walking tour that day doesn’t include Castelo de São Jorge ( St. George’s Castle) which is located in the same district,  but I had the chance to visit it during one of my previous trips. The view from the ancient fortress over Lisbon is one of the best so I highly recommend you a visit!

 View from Saint George’s Castle

                                                            View from Saint George’s Castle

Actually, the most specific thing about Lisbon is its terrain. Lisbon is known as the city of the seven hills . That’s why most of the time you’re climbing up or rapidly going down the steep streets (which is not that easy especially if you have a few drinks before that).

                                                         A steep, narrow alley in Alfamа

Often you would end up at one of those splendid terraces (miradouros) that will just force you to stop and take a photo. At this moment you would realize that all “ups” and “downs” that you have been through worth the efforts.  

Most of my friends know how much I love places with a view overlooking the city and that’s another reason to fall in love with Lisbon. The whole picture of red rooftops, simple houses, old churches and soft blue colors of Tagus River creates a real magic!

For the perfect view over the river and Alfama you shouldn’t miss Miradouro de Santa Luzia.

 Just a few steps away from Miradouro de Santa Luzia you will discover another viewpoint: Miradouro Das Portas Do Sol. A spacious balcony offers a truly spectacular view to São Vicente de Fora Church and the river.

We continue roaming around the romantic narrow streets of Alfama. The flower pots and clothes hanging from the small balconies make me feel as if I’m on a tour in a small village, somewhere far away from the noise and the stressed life of the big cities. I’m sure if you visit Lisbon, you’re going to feel the same.

It is said that if you haven’t tried the ginjinha (Portuguese cherry liquor) you haven’t been to Lisbon so our small group of tourists along with our guide is heading up to a tiny bar in Alfama which offers the traditional cherry liquor in a chocolate cup. Yes, you can eat it and yes, it’s yummy!

Of course at the end of my trip I wouldn’t miss the chance to buy a bottle of that traditional liquor (it’s soo good so I’m sure it has something to do with the Gummiberry juice from the Gummy Bears cartoon) that would be part of another 4 bottles of red Portuguese wine that I took with myself.

Now, you might think I’m kidding but I was more than prepared for this trip to Lisbon. I took a small empty suitcase with me (everyone knows that I travel only with my 30L backpack) so that I could fill it with the appropriate content and place the bag as a checked in luggage ;) All I’m trying to say is: if you like wine or your friends like it forget about all the magnets and other stupid souvenirs and buy as much wine as you can carry with you! Doesn’t matter, porto, tinto or verde the first sip always gives a smile on your face :)

The last stop of our tour is São Vicente de Fora Church. Here we say goodbye to our guide and leave him a small tip.

                                                            São Vicente de Fora Church

 In the shadows of São Vicente Church, you can enjoy the flea market, known as “Feira da Ladra”.

The flea market is a good spot if you want to practice your bargaining skills or just to have a walk and enjoy all the weird things that have been sold here: from antiques and iphones to magnets and old bicycles, vinyl or books.

Enjoy the small chaos of this market where you could see improvised stalls made of simple tablecloth without particular order. Personally I found for myself a nice stall for handmade t-shirts.

It’s time for lunch and we choose a small restaurant just opposite to Miradouro Das Portas Do Sol. The place it’s called Esplanada do Cantinho. We ordered the other brand of local beer “Sangres” (personally my favorite one is “Super Bock”) along with some appetizers.

My first try of bacalhau for that day was a small catastrophe. I don’t think food was fresh enough and on top the restaurant was overpriced.

Tip: if you want to enjoy Lisbon like local search for the small and hidden restaurants far away from the famous spots. For a true experience of local food and culture take the ferry from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas. 

In Cacilhas you will find many of those small family restaurants run by ordinary people who are neither rich nor arrogant. Yes, they don't speak English but they're more hospitable and will do their best to make you feel comfortable. 

Best bacalhau in my life I tried in "Cabrita": nice place on the main street of Cacilhas, not far away from the ferry. 

The streets in Cacilhas smell of fresh fish and everything is cooked in front of you. Portions are huge and you will pay half of the price of what you'll have to pay in some of Lisbon's mosst popular restaurants. 

And I promise you you'll never forget this taste. 

 The perfect end of our first day was jumping on tram 28. It’s just another thing you shouldn’t miss when you’re in Lisbon. 

That day we changed our accommodation and we moved to a really nice small hotel called “Lux Lisboa Park”. Located just a few minutes walk from Marques de Pombal Square and its metro station, just for 25 € per person (which is not that much compared to the fact you pay 15 € for hostel) you receive not only comfort but the rooms have amazing contemporary design. Breakfast is also included. 

Marques de Pombal Square 

Tip: if you are as lucky with the weather as we were don’t miss the chance to chill at Parque Eduardo VII, which is located just next to Marques de Pombal Square. 

So even though our lunch experience wasn’t that good still we had a sweet final of our first day here: with some Porto and Pastéis de Nata.

Lisbon for advanced travelers

Belém Tower

Night Life

That morning we started with a massive breakfast at “Lux Lisboa Park”. 

We were planning to go to Belém Tower. The fortified tower is an important part of the history of Portugal and it’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of the significant role it played in the Portuguese maritime discoveries of the era of the Age of Discoveries.

The weather that day was perfect. Even though it was February it felts like it’s spring already. We took a nice walk in the city center. 

We walked to Restauradores Square. Here you will see one of my favorite buildings – Rossio Railway Station. Probably this is one of the most beautiful train stations I’ve ever seen. 

Just for the record, in the station, on the 2nd floor is another hostel from Destination hostels chain. 

We walked to Rossio Square. 

From here you can also have a walk on one of my favorite streets in Portugal “Rua Augusta”. It’s always busy here, full with shops, restaurants and street musicians. 

The end of the street will leave you speechless. You will first see the huge arch and then statue of King José I on Praça do Comércio. 

And then it’s just the splendid view towards the river and endless blue horizon. I love this place. 

That day even tried to visit  Santa Justa Lift. 

The queue in front was terrifying so we decided we should not waste our time even for the sake of the good view from the top. If there’s something that I really can’t stand for in every trip this must be standing in line. I know that sometimes is worth it but in general this is driving me crazy. If you have the patience and time just go for it. 

Instead of waiting in line, we loaded our backpacks with beers and headed to Cais do Sodré. Here we caught tram 15E which took us to Belém. You could also take a train from here which will be much faster but you will miss the romantic journey with the old trams :)

Have a walk on the main street which is full with many small restaurants. Here you will see the famous shop: Pasteis de Belém. The Portuguese egg tart pastry were created before the 18th century by Catholic monks at the Jerónimos Monastery. Since 1837 locals and visitors alike have visited the bakery to purchase the tarts sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar fresh out of the oven.

Everything sounds perfect right? But…

Yes, the queue, again. 

I know it’s a shame to be here and not to try the delicious pastry but we had no choice. The queue was enormous and we had to choose between our greediness and the opportunity to watch the sunrise from Belém Tower. 

Don’t get desperate. Even if you miss the chance to try Pasteis de Belém you can taste the famous pastries in the second best place in Lisbon: Manteigaria Fábrica de Pastéis de Nata

The address is Rua do Loreto 2.

On our way to the tower we passed nearby the beautiful Jerónimos Monastery.

The monastery is also part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site but the most prominent part of Belém is Padrão dos Descobrimentos or Monument to the Discoveries. The monument celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discovery (or Age of Exploration) during the 15th and 16th centuries.

Here carved, lying on the white marble you will see all lands that Portuguese found at that time.

We decided that here, next to the great Portuguese discoveries, is the perfect spot to enjoy a bottle of “Super Bock”. All of sudden it started raining like cats and dogs and I was so afraid that I will miss my chance to visit the tower.

After half an hour the rain was gone I was smiling again :)

We passed by Bom Sucesso dock with its boats who are standing there like soldiers, ready to start their journey in the river anytime.

It was already late afternoon when we reached Belém Tower. The tower which was built in the early 16th century looks like it comes from one of The Borthers Grimm fairytales.

 I’ve seen photos of the tower before but when I saw it for the first time that day I thought that if I see Rapunzel, contemplating the sunrise from one of those small windows in the fortress I wouldn’t be surprised.

The ticket costs 6 € and you better be there before 5:00 pm because after that it will be closed.
The tower was built from beige-white limestone local to the Lisbon area and therefore called lioz.

Visitors have access to the terrace of the lower bastion as well as to the spiral staircase which 93 steps will lead you to the top. 

                                                            terrace of the lower bastion

                                                        terrace of the lower bastion

We climbed through the tiny staircase and just to reach the top right on time to see one of the most magnificent sunsets over Lisbon. 

                                                           Sunset from Belém Tower

Sacrificing the opportunity to try Pastéis de Belém was worth it, don’t you think?  :)

When we went out the ticket office was already closed so we were one of the last visitors for that day. 

Sightseeing always makes me hungry. If that’s the case with you go and try some of the local sandwiches at any of the small restaurants on Rua de Belém. 

When dusk stretches over Lisbon the city shows its other face. It’s well-known fact that Lisbon is one of the best cities in Europe for night life. 

The narrow dark streets of Bairro Alto are hiding many secrets that are waiting to be found. 

It’s funny that during my previous visits as a cabin crew all of my colleagues were insisting to go to Bairro Alto during the day just because they heard it’s one of the most famous districts in Lisbon. I could have never understood what’s so special about it before that night.

 NO! If you want to discover what’s the real charm of Bairro Alto go there by night and just soak up the atmosphere of the many tiny bars, night clubs and toss off as many glasses of wine as you can. 

How to get to Bairro Alto? I admit the tiny streets of the city were quite confusing to me at the beginning. Just when I was sure what is the right direction I would often stop and ask myself “So now, left or right? I’m sure if I take that street… Oh no, am I lost agaaain? “

So first… take one of those Free Lisbon Survival Maps (I took mine from hostel but they also have it at the Tourist info center at the Airport). As many of you probably know I’m quite bad with maps but this (the name says it all) it’s essential. 

So here we go, borders of Bairro Alto look like that: 

You can easily reach Bairro Alto from Restauradores or Rossio Square. Just follow your survival map or ask some local for the direction. 

My trick was to learn how NOT to get lost before I reach main spots. 

For instance I memorized how to get to Praça Luís de Camões.  Once when you get there you can already afford yourself the luxury to get lost into the small streets of Bairro Alto. From here is also easy to get to the Pink Street.

                                                              Praça Luís de Camões 

Everything that evening started from a small wine shop called Baco Alto. The cozy interior of that small wine shop/bar is inviting visitors from a first glimpse.

The address is Rua Do Norte, 33

Everything started with a glass of the popular “vinho verde”, then a glass of “tinto”, maybe a few sweet shots of ginginha?

Before you leave the place you realize that somehow you ended up buying a bottle of red wine (just like that, to have some small memory of that bar) and you are holding a plastic glass of red wine (just like that, to have something to drink while you’re heading to the next bar)…And then you will find out why everyone loves Bairro Alto ;)

For the best mojitos in town go to Clube da Esquina (Rua da Barroca 30-32).

You just have started feeling a little bit dizzy while walking on the street and then the magic smell of cinnamon hits your senses and makes you stop at Manteigaria Fábrica de Pastéis de Nata and give a chance to a new combination that (you are sure about it) not many tourists tried (you buy one of those cute egg tart pastries and you decide it will be a revolutionary idea to replace the coffee with wine while enjoying it)

And just to make the things a little bit more sweet & spicy you’re heading up to Rua Nova do Carvalho, more famous as The PINK street. Located nearby Cais do Sodré this place with the provocative pink-painted asphalt is a home to a variety of unique and unusual places.

That area was formerly known as Lisbon’s Red Light District: sailors, thieves, drifters, guys looking for problems, and of course… prostitutes.

Nowadays is a vibrant area of night clubs and bars where you can meet lots of cool people.

Go get another drink and feel the sensual and dirty vibes of the pink asphalt… And then, by the end of this crazy evening I’m sure you will find you why everyone loves Lisbon ;)