After the kick-start of 2016 with my trip to Egypt in January I tried to keep up the high level of my adventures and February started with a great trip to Tbilisi, Georgia. Here are my recommendations for the top 15 things to do in that great country.
So after an exhausting flight as an operating crew and just with a few hours of sleep (you would probably say nothing new under the sun) I catch a flight from Dubai on 6th of FEB. Unfortunately Emirates don’t fly there so I’m travelling with FlyDubai. The flight duration is 03:30h. I land in Tbilisi in a very bad timing – 03:30 am.
I’m using Couchsurfing again, my way of traveling on budget and at the same time meeting amazing people from all over the wor ld.
My host is not local. Necati is from Turkey and he is living and working in Tbilisi. He’s kind enough to come and pick me up from the airport. I’m so tired so honestly I don’t even have a memory for our first conversation but I can see he is a welcoming and nice person.
I sleep just for a few hours and then my small adventure starts here. So first thing to do in Georgia…
1. Go SKIING in Gudauri!
Winter here it’s amazing! Being a girl living in The Middle East, I haven’t had the chance to see any snow for almost 2 years. Some of you can say it’s luck that the company would always send me to summer destinations but coming from The Balkans I really missed the white queen :)
Georgia is a very good place to be in the winter because here mountains are generous in snow and if you are fan of winter sports the prices are like in my country, Bulgaria (which means it’s cheap)!
So here we are, early in the morning, my host Necati, Tyler and a super cool girl from China, Yiping on our way to Gudauri.
Yiping also lives in Dubai like me. She’s just another example that the greatest people who live in Dubai you actually meet usually out of UAE.
It’s hard to explain to me how hard it is to create friendships in Dubai but I feel Yiping shares the same thoughts as me. We bought agree that Dubai is a cosmopolitan city full with fake people.
Like we say: “Dubai is the melting pot that never melts”.
From Tbilisi to Gudauri it takes around 2h drive but I’m so tired so I miss most of the scenery. When I woke up I’m already with my beloved winter that I’ve been dreaming for so long!
Everyone is keen to try the ski. Tyler is the most experienced one. Yiping and Necati are learning. I’m learning too but I’m a fan of snowboarding. And because I really want to learn I rent equipment and hire an instructor for 3 hours. Compared to the price that you would pay in most European winter resorts, skiing in Georgia looks almost for free.
30 lari for the equipment, 30 lari for 1 day card for the lift and 130 lari for snowboard instructor.
So here we are me and Levani, who is a great teacher and he’s really patient with me that day :P
And here’s me trying my best on the snowboard. Got so many bruises but who cares! I had so much fun :P
And here is our small international group, left to right: Bulgaria, USA, Turkey, China. It sounds like we are participating in The Olympic Games, isn’t it? ;)
2. WALK!
Living in a big city sometimes I forget how cool is just to be able to walk! Well, Tbilisi gives you that opportunity.
Every morning I used to walk from Rustaveli Ave to Freedom Square.
Freedom Square
Sometimes it was windy, one morning it was raining quite heavily but I never gave up! I remembered the good old days back home in Sofia, Bulgaria, when I used to go to work on foot. I loved just to watch people, everyone busy with something.
Here in the morning you see street musicians (I never pass by without leaving them some coins cause they’re not beggars), here a man selling popcorn, a small street stall with an old books in Russian and English. Let’s not forget the small street market on Rustaveli Ave which has a good selection of souvenirs:
Someone shouting on the phone (or maybe they’re just talking to a friend, with Georgians it’s hard to understand whether they are angry or they actually have nice feelings about someone). What I know for sure is that they’re emotional people, just like us, on The Balkans. Love and fights are part of the everyday life here :)
3.EXPLORE The Old City!
It’s not difficult to do this in a day. My host from Couchsurfing gave me a great tip – to try to Tbilisi Free Walking Tour.
The tour runs every day from Freedom Square exactly at 12pm. The day that I choose to explore the old city is quite cold and rainy. I’m the only one person who shows up for the tour. I meet Ana, an amazing girl from Ukraine who will be my guide.
Even though Ana is not from Tbilisi she knows a lot about the country so we had a great time together. She is willing to show me around despite the fact that I’m the only one person for the tour that day. She is positive and smiling all the time. I leave her some tip at the end which she absolutely deserves.
We spent together 3 lovely hours. We took the cable car to the ancient Narikala fortress from where you can have a bird’s eye view over the city:
We walked in the small streets of the Old Town while she was giving me interesting facts about the country.
Don’t miss the Gabriadze Puppet theater with the clock tower. The building looks like it comes from the Hensel and Gretel fairytale :)
Ana will give you the rest of the facts. I highly recommend her as a guide. If you want to contact her just give her a call: +380 (98) 110 65 94. Only one thing I would ask from you, please tell her you know how great guide she is because of one girl from Bulgaria (who lives in Dubai) and who had a chance to meet her for a day :)
4.EAT khinkali!
Food is definitely not my biggest passion but while I was in Georgia I was always looking for the khinkali. I could eat it anytime!
Khinkali are special version of Georgian dumplings. Resembling a dim sum, Khinkali is a juicy, delicious dumpling stuffed with meat and spices.
There’s many variations of khinkali. It could be stuffed with vegetables or cheese (which I’ve tried just out of curiosity) but unless you’re not vegetarian don’t even bother yourself and always order the ones with meat! They’re the best ;)
Don’t miss the chance also to try khachapuri: a traditional Georgian dish of cheese-filled bread.
5.TRY Churchkhela!
It looks like a sausage but is not. Then, what is it? It’s Churchkhela: sausage-shaped candy made up of walnuts threaded onto a long string, which is then dipped into a concentration of fresh grape juice!
6.DRINK Georgian wine!
W-I-N-E. Do you want me to spell it again? Tasting wine is my passion and trust me if any of the countries that I’m visiting is famous for the good wine, I totally forget about everything else. Sightseeing? Buying souvenirs? Museums? Fuck it… If someone offers me a glass and after that ask me: “Do you want another one?” I always have to make sure that they know what kind of person they’re dealing with so my response would often sound like this: “You are talking about another bottle, right”?
So, if you are a wine lover and sinner like me, go to Georgia and you will find the paradise! Each and every corner is full of temptations. The quality is beyond expectations and prices fit any pocket.
Every evening I was sharing the pleasure of tasting different local wines with my hosts from Couchsurfing. During the day I was having lots of beers or another type of alcoholic drink. Don’t miss the chance to try the local Chacha. It’s like rakiya (Bulgarians know what I’m talking about). Briefly, when you enter a liquor store, you almost feel you would like to become a resident here :D
The most interesting fact about production of wine in Georgia is that the method is a unique one. Georgians invented the method of kvevris. The process of making wine in kvevris involves pressing the grapes and then pouring the juice, grape skins, stalks and pips into the kvevri, which is then sealed. The juice is then left to ferment into wine for at least five to six months before being decanted and bottled. The mash of pips, skins and stalks (called chacha in Georgian) is then removed and distilled into brandy.
Here is the Georgian toastmaster also known as Tamada. People in Georgia like to gather and celebrate and that event is called supra. At all supras regardless of size, there is a tamada, or toastmaster, one person who introduces each toast. Georgians like to say that the tamada is dictator of the table, but it would be more appropriate to compare him to a leader or even a teacher.
How important is the wine for Georgians you can see even from their registration plates like this one who belongs to a friend of mine ;)
7.FIND best bars & restaurants!
“Глинтвейн“, „Вино“, „Пиво“ - you will learn the basics of the Cyrrillic alphabet quite fast ;)
As I said temptations are on each and every corner so just ask locals or trust your instincts and go find your delicious lunch by yourself. It’s hard to make a mistake here. Everywhere you will find tasty food, good wine and unique interior and exterior.
A good restaurant that I was recommended by two of the local people is called “Samikitno” at Maidan Square (just behind the “I ❤ Tbilisi” symbol). I had lunch twice there. You won’t regret too.
If you are heading to Gudauri, take a rest, pull over and try the khinkali and local beer at “Salobie” restaurant.
Or raise a glass of beer at “Sabatono” restaurant & bar.
8.LEARN some Georgian history!
If history is an important part of every country than for Georgians it’s vital. People in that country are proud with every single moment of their past.
How was Georgia established?
According to an old legend, the present-day territory of Tbilisi was covered by forests as late as 458. One widely accepted variant of the legend of Tbilisi's founding states that King Vakhtang I Gorgasali of Georgia went hunting in the heavily wooded region with a falcon. The King's falcon allegedly caught or injured a pheasant during the hunt, after which both birds fell into a nearby hot spring and died from burns.
King Vakhtang became so impressed with the hot springs that he decided to cut down the forest and build a city on the location. The name Tbilisi derives from Old Georgian. The name "T'pili" or "T'pilisi" (literally, "warm location") was therefore given to the city because of the area's numerous sulphuric hot springs that came out of the ground.
Statue of King Vakhtang in Tbilisi.
9.EXPERIENCE The Sulphur bath!
After trying this I can say the word SPA has a completely new meaning to me!
Abanotubani district is famous for the Sulphur bath. It’s a great way to relax after long day strolling on the streets of Tbilisi. Get a private room for the price of 70-80 lari per hour and enjoy the miraculous hot water and your cold beer inside! Best thing is that baths are open 24/7.
Tip: Pass behind The Royal bath you see on the photo, turn right and you will find Gulo’s bath. They have really good rooms and even sauna! Make sure you book your room since it could be really busy.
10.VISIT at least one church!
And I’ve seen more than one in Georgia.
Most of the population in Georgia nowadays practices Orthodox Christianity but you can also find Muslims and Catholics.
If you go for the Free Walking Tour in Tbilisi I’m sure that you will visit at least the Catholic church of St.Virgin Mary, The Synagogue but my personal favourite one is Jvaris Mama Church. It’s really small but peaceful inside. The faces of the saints on the walls have the Georgian features and I like the vibes of that place.
If you have the chance I highly recommend you to go for a one day trip to Mtskheta which is one of the oldest cities in Georgia.
Here you can visit Jvari Monastery and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral which are among the most significant monuments of Georgian Christian architecture.
Jvari Monastery
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral
Apart from that the view over the city itself worth a visit:
11.SEE Tbilisi botanical garden!
Ok, I agree if you are coming in Georgia during the winter you will miss all the greenery and so on but still, it’s a good idea if you want to have a stroll with nature.
12.RIDE The Cable Car!
The cable car which will take you to Nirkala Fortress is an amazing way to see the city from bird’s eye view. Whenever I find that there’s an option for a cable car I always go for the ride. So far I’ve done this in La Paz, Bolivia, Porto, Portugal and Darjeeling, India. It’s always magnificent experience.
For only one lari you could enjoy fantastic 360 degree view over the city that I’m sure even the best sky deck observatory couldn’t offer!
Tip: for great photos just open the small window shields and be careful not to drop your phone when you see the view:
13.ENJOY the unique architecture!
Tbilisi’s architecture is an odd mixture of old and new. Georgia excited as Georgian Soviet Socialist Republic, basically part of the Soviet Union until 1991.
Tbilisi nowadays looks to me as a cocktail of post-communist architecture and contemporary buildings.
Coming from Bulgaria, a country which was under the communist regime up to 1989 I can easily make the parallel between the two countries.
Tbilisi also looks a bit chaotic (like Sofia) but I think the contemporary buildings (mainly governmental institutions) look more beautiful than the ones we have in my country.
You will find many “creative” architectural wonders here which create out from the city a unique patchwork.
14. GO & MEET people!
Wherever you go, be open and positive. You will meet good people everywhere and in Georgia you can find amazing new friends!
15.All of the above activities will guarantee you # 15:
Fall in LOVE with Tbilisi:
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